Incidentally, I'm referring to the three-project type of project, with separate projects for EAR, EJB, and WAR. When they're all in one project, it's much harder to handle multiple WAR files, and the project I'm aiming at will be using at least two..
Never mind -- seam-gen now likes me again! After I created the missing (empty) bin/ subdirectory in seam-gen and making sure I was using the version installed under the unpacked seam (symlinks are not my friend here), I now have a working example site.
I'm pondering converting some of the other examples to WTP projects since it's much easier for others to jump in if they can ctrl-click around in the IDE (at least it is for me), but for now I'll have to get working on my project using seam (the alternative of using struts was about to be forced on me -- eek!)